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As go, few are than a as a cloak over North China.
冬季来临，围坐在热气腾腾的铜锅边，是中国人历来的传统，也是北方寒冻之日少有的美妙时刻。
the claim that Khan, the of the Yuan (1271-1368), .
考古研究显示，元朝开国皇帝忽必烈开创了“涮羊肉”的做法。
The on , but in the of , Khan’s had to make do with just the in water to cook it for him.
战时，游牧民族在战乱中以羊肉为济。然而战事激烈，忽必烈的部下只能将就着把羊肉放在沸水里涮着给他吃。
For a long time, only ‘s , such as the , could get their hands on . It was very among the royal of the Qing (1644-1911). From the food , (1711-99) was a true lover, with the dish more than 200 times in 1789.
很长一段时间里，只有京城内的皇权贵族才能享受涮羊肉。清朝王室里涮肉盛行。据帝王膳食饮馔的相关文献记载，乾隆皇帝偏爱涮肉，仅在1789年就食用两百次有余。
Among the of and meat out on the table, has been put in the front and .
在餐桌上铺开的各类蔬菜肉菜当中，羊肉总是摆放在正中间。
The has the of the body, which makes it an ideal food for the . , sheep are up after a of , them ideal for meat the .
人们认为，羊肉暖身，能御寒，是寒冬腊月的上好食材。夏日一过，羊儿被饲养得膘肥体壮，也是爱吃肉的人们冬日里的绝佳选择。
Many folk favor over beef in part were once more as a means of .
在古时劳作中，牛是更为重要的生产工具，因而民间习俗大多喜羊肉而非牛肉。
, the city is home to more than 2,000 .
目前，北京市内有两千多家涮羊肉店。
is known for its , to the point that many would think of it on . It has no – soup but plain water with some and . In some more cases, thorn, dried and are added.
传统的北京涮羊肉以简单清爽著称，正因如此，不少南方人觉得涮肉平平无奇。涮肉没有刺激味蕾、引人垂涎的火锅底料，只有一锅白水加少许葱姜，更高级一些的涮锅，还带些沙棘、干菇和虾仁。
Since 1996, Cai has stuck to the old- way at his Uncle Yang’s () in .
自1996年以来，蔡世红开创的“羊大爷涮肉”便坚持传统的涮锅做法。
His was small at first but was soon by of .
起初只是小本生意，但很快，大批食客闻香而来，小店也不得不扩张。
From just six , Cai’s has grown to six in , , Hubei ‘s Wuhan and ‘s .
一开始只有六张小桌的“羊大爷”，如今在京、浙、沪、鄂四城开设了六家超大门店。
came , , but Cai most of them to the of his .
不少投资者慕名而来，寻求加盟合作的机会，而蔡世红为了保证膳食品质，大都婉言谢绝。
“I for a short in the past, many new ways to and eat , some of which I even had ,” says the 64-year-old .
64岁的蔡世红说：“也有迷茫的时候，也创新了不少制备和食用羊肉的方法，有些还获得了专利。”
“But it didn’t go well,” Cai , that the key to his is .
蔡世红承认，创新“并非事事顺意”，成功的关键是回归传统做法。
The of the plays a role in the , and be in place from the very start.
要想吃到美味的涮羊肉，肉质至关重要，质量控制要一步到位。
tofu, , made from bean and baked are in old- .
冻豆腐、大白菜、粉丝和火烧，是正宗老北京涮羊肉里不可或缺的食材。
When the water boils, a dish of fatty from the tail is in to the pot, and then the can be added. After the meat, it’s time for tofu, which will the soup and an of on the . Then, can be in the brine to the taste and , the of the rich, meaty and room for the last of the baked .
将水煮开，往锅里放入羊尾油，给锅上油，再放羊肉片。随后放冻豆腐，吸收羊肉汤，享受在舌苔上轻轻爆开的鲜美味道。再涮点大白菜，缓和膻味，调节口味，平衡营养，留点胃口继续吃麻酱烧饼。
The pot and , sauce, chili oil, leek and , also have to be to the .
铜锅、配料——芝麻酱、辣椒油、韭花酱和醋，缺一不可。
In the old days, such only from Mid- (the 15th day of the lunar month). often waned after . And some would have to find a new job after Boat (the fifth day of the fifth lunar month), when came to a halt. Today, , has a to China’s .
过去，涮肉餐馆只到中秋节前后才开张，春节过后生意渐趋冷清，端午节后关门，不少员工只能另寻新职。现如今，涮羊肉已是美食家们的常年最爱。
The in has for year-round of fresh meat.
羊肉生产技术发展革新，现在全年都能供应新鲜羊肉。
“We have in a long line , and while sees such drop off, our are still often fully ,” Cai says.
蔡世红说：“冬天，用餐食客都要排队等着；而夏天，哪怕需求量有所下降，我们店里还是座无虚席。”
记者：杨飞跃
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